Eclipse it! (San Blas Islands, Panama)

Nalulaga Island.jpegExperiencing an eclipse is just that – an experience.  Whether it is total or partial – or whether it is solar or moon. It is an interesting moment to experience on this Earth we live.  Today, Monday, August 21, we will have a total eclipse to be viewed across most of North America.  It has been anticipated, talked about and the crowds are lining up in different parts. Whitey and I have had a few viewings of eclipses in the past.

A more memorable solar view was when we were in the San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), located on the Caribbean side of Panama.  Years later we would spend more time there but this was our first visit to this beautiful archipelago with its indigenous indians.  It was mid-July, 1991 and we had been there for about 2 months.  This was way before internet and we did not have any access to any media or news.  (Which is a good thing, most of the time.)  We had plans to move our boat from the islands back to Portobello on the main land.  Whitey went ashore the afternoon before to check out with the Port Captain which was necessary when departing the Kuna Yala.   He said ‘But tomorrow is not a good day to go.  An eclipse will be happening’.  This conversation was in Spanish and took Whitey a minute to understand what he was saying.  First thought through our heads is ‘How do they know (it will be an eclipse)?’  Second thought was ‘Why (can’t we leave tomorrow)?’ 

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MOVIES AND BREADFRUIT (SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA)

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Victor and Lisa’s Island

We had become friends with Victor and Lisa, the Chief and his wife of the Western Hollandaise group in the San Blas Islands. One day, Victor showed up at our boat, ‘Tamarin of Tortola’, to collect the $5 Monthly Cruising Tax. It’s just a little fee for anchoring in their little group of islands.

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Nargana in the San Blas Islands

The Hollandaise Islands are approximately 7 miles from the main land of Panama. The nearest populated islands were Nargana and Corazon de Jesus, two crowded islands that were joined together by a bridge. Victor and Lisa were from Nargana, which is also known as Rio Diablo after the nearby river. They and their extended family were in charge of the group of islands known as the Western Hollandaise.

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KUNA POLITICS (SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA)

We had heard so much about the San Blas Islands of Panama that we were naturally excited to be arriving there for the first time. This archipelago of over 365 islands and cayes are part of the Comarca de Kuna Yala and located to the east of the Panama Canal. It sounded like such a perfect cruising ground. Unfortunately, our first days there comprised of a depressing loss and search of our inflatable tender.   The reason it was lost wasn’t theft, it was just simple human error. But, as always with boating, lessons are learned and eyes are opened as we visit new countries. (more…)